Damodharan Gandhiraj
8 min readSep 13, 2019

--

An assignment is written on Handlooms and Quality Costing

Preface: Handlooms & Quality Costing of Textiles
Handloom Industry in India plays a vital role in providing gainful employment to our rural folk and it is next to agriculture in terms of employment and it is responsible for the livelihood of nearly ten million people in the country. It has a long tradition of excellence & craftsmanship it has taken part of our culture & heritage every state in India has its own contributions i.e., Exclusive Kanchipuram, thirubuvanam silk saris mostly appraised for its excellence for the bridal wear during marriage, festivities and celebrities from Tamilnadu state etc.,like-wise Andhra state in the self sufficient life of the Andhra village the women in each household the plied charka spun and wove the cloth for wear. the weaver in each village was a master craftsman who had learnt father to son and son to son how to move the weft and the woof so as to weave flowers tendrils birds and geometrical patterns and sacred symbols in to the fabric as a finished cloth and a reflection of our ethic values & rituals of our Indian culture and ex-press ions of life of our culture and heritage.
The indigenous craftsmanship mingled with Iranian & North Indian kalamkari arts & printing by using vegetable dyes as an extraction of these vegetable dyes from plant leaves, roots etc., by through cultivated from their ancestors etc., the kalamkari printing and artifices the fusion of techniques as in the tree of life kalamkari and large wall hangings and covering of Hindu myths in kalamkari village.
Andhra especially has s rich many facetted traditions which is reflected in its arts and crafts rich heritage of Dravidian culture and traditions it also absorbed central Asian traditions the coastal area of Andhra around machillipatinam known as the Coromandel coast Which famous its export of fabrics had trade contact with far-east but also with Arab world the evidence is the first mosque built at machillipattinam between 10/11 AD by the foreign trades as in the descriptions of travel accounts.
Machillipattinam as having gold from all the world being poured into its coffers while ships flying flags of many nationalities by anchored in the harbor for many months to pick-up their stock of printed fabrics which they traded in the far east for spices.
With such rich past the weaver of Andhra Pradesh developed the use of variety of materials in a range of texture designs and colors even today some of the finest silk brocades and cotton are woven in Andhrapradesh i.e., Dharmavaram silk saris broad solid color borders & contrasting pallor weaved with brocaded gold pattern are the coveted wedding saris.
Narayanpet saris are similar to the Maharashtrian saris of ilkal & Shapur and in possession of Patti borders which simulates the basket weave and broad pillow known as top-tennis pillow the top-tennis stripes are woven in golden thread are woven thus creating a rich effect, armor saris were traditionally woven with deep colors with use of heavy quality silks purple and deep majjith colors usually used for rich silk gold saris.
Varanasi the lustrous silks the pleasure-seeking gold and silver brocades superb cashmere executed shawls & sweaters and in the historic vicinity of Qutub minor nestles the resplendent mehurulli bazaar new Delhi an endless variety of sensuous silks displayed opulent brocades antique silks woven with gold and silver threads, fine printed whispering crepe de-chines textured furnishings fabrics and the illusory ikkat the tie-dye of Andhra in additions to our proudest silk carpets.
Gold & silver brocades of Banaras silks the weavers of Karnataka mainly belong to the devanga community deva indicates the almighty and anga mean a part of him very approximately a divine talent is inherent in the weaving is not mere means of livelihood it reflects his dedication to the glorious tradition, kasuthi the art of needle the hand embroidery on Hand wovens dating back to the age of early Chalukyas dedicatedly embroidered only on ilkal saris ex-press ion of chariots, gopurams deepastumbas,pushkarnis-animated descriptions Daria-doulath printed saris the place of srirangapatna it reflects the Mughal style as such pochampalli tie-& dye, Udupi saris, mulkalmaru kuttu silk saris so many aggregates the reflection of handlooms and resemblances from time immemorial of our heritage and culture these assets in the hands of our master craftsman the weaver.
Quality in other words excellence, the quality of being excellent till the customer-focused demand prevails in the market scenario in the form of constant demand supply and price in equilibrium on long standing. And the process being examined by quality tests taking into account all the required factors as determinants/ constraints starting from sourcing of components/materials till the final touch given to a branded product being customer focused in terms of demand, price, supply, etc., always appraised a qualitative & quantitative one in the market scene, it is not a monopoly marketing trend i.e., any product capturing the market instantaneously accumulating wealth is transient in nature only till the next competitor crops up in terms of high fashionable , price and value modifications may attract the customer for a short run only for a long run the quality cost, durability and traditionally branded one and easily available will have customer demand for such brands captures the minds of the customer the economists have no faith in monopoly tactics and business in any field.
Prevention cost is preferred to detection of defects, continual improvement in fundamental processes, and analyzing /testing the factors determinants /constraints in procuring the required component/material proper assessment of labor involvement, time schedule and financial implication required to be to executed a particular brand of product avoiding all wastages by proper verifications and arriving to the precise conclusions etc., and the sustained involvement and participation in the process from the line to top, customer focus both internal and external in careful study of all constraints during the process and arriving or accrued to full proof one, the handlooms and production, consumption and investment and these three aspects always confronted with in the problem of choice, the available resources are allocated among the alternatives utilized in such a way as to get the best possible use of them all the above facts already been conversed there is no new still bringing in to applications among the cross functionaries in the line of marketing, purchase, production, quality, and market research wing, etc., is to be brought in to process it is a must.
The key concepts in quality cost program
Prevention cost details preparation of proposals the evolution of new processes, preparation of experimental program & training.
In an aggregation the prevention cost incurred to ensure that errors are not being made at any point or stages during the delivery process of the product or service to a customer.
And the studies contend that increase in the variability of the unexpected component of inflation may cause real misallocation of resources more over the policies are designed to reduce the rate of increase in prices of the product and service to the customer and the risk factors of such component/product values and it’s escalation of prices and decrease should be altered by equilibrium concept by through studies in prior etc.,
At present the handloom industry and the main factors, which affects the loom productivity, are
a) Level of the technology of the loom
b) The sophistication of the product
c) No of days worked in a given period of time
d) Ability and skill of individual weavers
e) Availability and quality of raw material
f) Pre-loom conditioning and workplace environment
The three factors, which elude success are
a) The lukewarm approach or attitude of implementers
b) The apathy of the organization concerned
c) Lack of proper research and development centers
Guidelines for modernization schemes
a) Pre-loom and post loom aspects as part and parcel of modernization
b) We should aim at improving the product or the loom significantly and the quality of the fabric should be improved at the same time
c) It should give scope for design input and the design input should be capable of diversification of product range.
d) The loom and accessories through modernization gadgets introduction should enable the weaver to handle easy to operate & to maintain
e) Product and area approach should be adopted for integrated development
f) Training facilities in the use of modern gadgets should be given necessarily
g) Loss of wages during the training installation should be compensated to the weaver.
The viability of handloom and financial well being of those engaged in the production of handloom cloth fully depend upon the quality of the cloth to produce better quality and same time improve the livelihood of the weaver and his dependants etc.,
In quality control laboratory conditions as such an ideal set of conditions in which all variant factors except the one under test can be held constant as for example rooms provided with constant temperature at 27 Deg.centigrade and humidity at 65+ or –2 degrees RH –humidity control, clean rooms and the like less specifically the rems refers to experimental or small batch conditions as opposed to large scale production for textile laboratory as mentioned temperature of 27 Degree Centigrade and 65+ or — 2 RH required.
Product integrity is required by this analysts/testing support sourcing channels and merchandising to ensure brand protection enhance product quality by managing lab and systematic activities required to be maintained and managing product testing report review recommendations for product enhancement and programme maintenance, develop product performance specifications and test methodologies ensure all specifications are consistent with regulatory requirements change in current manufacturing practices develop and manage product enhancements and sourcing channel and technical support and technical training to sourcing channel and identifying the key vendors made by efficient Textile Laboratory and environment made possible to work analyze /test on professional manner.
The five steps organizing our workplace as per the concept originated from Japan deliberately 1) to reduce the wasted effort 2) to reduce the wasted time 3) to reduce the wasted money 4)to enhance the value of outputs 5)to improve employees moral and motivations.
Approve the ranking of all styles and designs within the departmental based on historical and current product performance and market place information may reduce the wasted effort.
Identifying business opportunities and risks in season through analyzing sales performance and gathering market place information may reduce wasted time i.e., seasonal sales at defense auditoriums available for meager rent with all facilities it may not cost Rs.225/day inclusive of water bathroom facilities etc., are provided for sales officials at HVF (Heavy Vehicle Factory) auditorium Avadi, Chennai-54 approximately 48000 defense officials are working at this area with cluster of culture belongs every part of India the communities are found living together and this place may motivate sales on our newly launched products and traditional varieties etc., and kalpak an Atomic Reactor under this project sales can be motivated at season.
Change of future department strategies i.e., production, procurement in a season where needed & where provide appropriate and timely direction to the cross-functional team the sales officials in order to react quickly to customer and business trends it may enhance the value of our branded products.
Possession of clear understanding financial measurements and how to impact them production that suits and ability to facilitated in a fast-phased environment etc., could improve morality and motivation of our employees and the in-he rant traditional weavers from other states brought in a master craftsman to impart training for our non-traditional weavers arranging training program by taking service from renowned labs and institutions etc.,

--

--